Ask Hern

[Pa Goosehntr]

  Hern, when you skun a critter do you flesh it the same day or wait til the next day or a couple of days?

Also, does it flesh easier waiting a day or two? 

[Pa Goosehntr]

  You guys musta plumb tuckered Hern out at the show  He's still sleepin 

[Hern]

After skun'n, I lay Coon on cool cement floor for a day or two after skun'n. Then flesh & board.
The fat sets up and is not as messy when flesh'n. Coon seem easier to flesh when fat is set up.
Coon flesh'n can be put off for several days without soiling or slipping.

All other furbearers, gets skun & fleshed the same day, for the most part.
There are times when I skun and freeze. Then flesh & board when I have time.
There are different ways guys work up fur. This is how I usually do it. Other folks have different agendas so may work up fur other ways...

When I volume trapped & called (and worked a full time job), I skun & froze at times when I didn't have time for the fur shed.
This is still common practice for many trappers & predator callers, skun & freeze then put up later when one has time. This method adds to more time to call or set traps. A time saver. One way to 'make more time on the line'.

[Pa Goosehntr]

  There you have it folks....now let's see some more questions!! Like is it easier to skun a coyote vertical or horizontally? I've seen out west they carry a rig for the receiver on their pickups that's vertical....??

[Hern]

Vertical or Horizontal? I think your question is about using a hoist and fixed base.
Either method is good. I don't think one is faster than other.

Out west, there are remote areas where guys trap and camp for extend periods of time. Some of these area have no trees. A horizontal skun'n rig was developed to fit in trailer receiver so folks had a place to skun. They been used for decades out west.
Last season, two friends trapped Wyoming. This was the first time out west for them. They built a horizontal rig for that trip. They said they used it every day.

Goose, this thread is on the wrong page.
Any other fur handling questions should be posted on 'Fur Handling' page.
Let's move over there for other fur put up questions. Ok?

[Pa Goosehntr]

  Well excuuuuuze me!! Saw a coyote crossin a plowed field along I-81 this mornin...shaggy lookin...

[Pa Goosehntr]

Hern, How would you rank the following brands of traps? Newhouse, Montgomery, MB, Victor, Duke, Bridger,  Sleepy Creek, Onieda, B&L ....and I know I'm forgetting some. Please rank them from most favorite to least favorite, forget cost.....just go with durability, and convenience.....

[Hern]

I can't rank them because I haven't used every brand, every size for every furbearer.
I can offer what brand and what furbearer I trapped. Your opinion may differ. Traps are a personal choice.
I'll go in the order you listed...
Newhouse are mainly collector items nowadays. I still set a few #3 double LS for Fox and Coyote during the winter. This is just of ole time sake.

Montgomery's are well built. Great traps. I've used #2's CS (dog on) for Fox and Coyote. I may own a few and don't use Montgomery's now.

MB's, I never own any. But appear to be a well made trap.

Victor, I own a ton of #1 1/2's CS. Years back I used them for Fox. Great Fox trap. Poor Coyote trap. Also I used them for Coon, Muskrat & Mink. Nowadays, they are mainly Mink & Muskrat traps.
I own/use Victor conibears. 110's, 160's & 330's. 110's work well for Muskrats & Mink.
There are better traps on the market then Victor 160's & 330's.
Victor #1 LS & Stop Loss are the benchmark of a foothold Muskrat trap.
I own alot of #0's LS. They held up great over the years.

Bridger #2's CS & #3's CS is my mainstay for Coyote & Fox. They are easy to tune. Very little modifications needed.
Well built trap that holds up on my line. Built like the ole Northwoods, a trap I enjoyed using.
Bridger conibears work well.

Sleepy Creek, never own a foothold trap from SC.
Sleepy Creek conibears are the best I used. Strong springs. Great conibears.

Oneida, same as Victor.

Blake & Lamb, I have a lot of #0's LS I used for Weasel trapping. Good traps I've been using since a boy.

 

[Pa Goosehntr]

  Thank You for your expertise.....I too like the Bridger's and never owned a MB.....seems like the MB design would make them heavy if you had to carry them very far...

[Pa Goosehntr]

Hern, How many swivels do you have in a fox/coyote chain? I like at least two, what is your preference? 

[Hern]

I use short chain. 2 swivels are necessary for short chain, but I use 3. Over kill, extra expense for mid-line swivel, extra work rigging chain with 3 swivels, but I do it. Again, personal choice how many swivels one uses or how long a chain a person prefers.
I make many sets along a crop field where grass or weeds grow and they get mowed once or twice a year. After a catch, grass/weeds bind in chain swivels, resulting in chain binding causing foot damage. Am not going to sell 'the foot' of an animal, but don't want to hurt animal (furbearer or pet), just hold animal till I get there. If that makes any sense.

[Pa Goosehntr]

Well I thought some others would ask some questions  but I guess everyone knows it all 

[Hern]

I would like to see others comment on these questions. As to how others use swivels or tune traps or what trap you use. We can all share ideas.

I was a Fox trapper with a lot of Victor #1 1/2 coil springs. Nowadays, I expect to catch a Coyote on every property I set. So I had to purchase larger traps, years ago.
When I switched from a Fox trap to a Coyote/Fox trap I bought #2 Montgomery CS and #2 Northwoods CS.
Over the seasons, I wanted to standardize my Canine traps to one brand.
Since Montgomery & Northwoods went out of business, I bought Bridger #2 CS. I sold the Montgomerys & Northwoods as I bought more Bridgers #2's. I added some Bridger #3's.
Using one brand of Canine trap has help me in a few ways. I know how to tune 'em up, I keep less parts since I use one brand, I am familiar with bedding the same trap & I'm never reaching for a certain trap or certain brand. Every trap is the same.

[QUATTRO]

Can't comment at all on most of the content here but will mention I bought a dozen Bridger 150s...just to dabble (again) for mink this coming season...from what I could gather they are solid traps..seems you may agree Hern...So, is there a modification that is a must ?..what is your favorite set? I plan on hitting some bridge abutment/wing walls..

[Hern]

The Bridger 150 is 5"x5". Giving you an extra 5 square inches of opening over the 110.
Not sure modifications are needed. Mink, yes...read later.
But with most traps, adjustments and tuning are needed, even to conibears. You want a finely tuned trap working for you...
-Make sure dogs are straight (part with notches). Use large channel lock or vice to straighten.

-file rough burrs off sides of dogs and notches.

-With a round file, File notches so they meet with top of trigger clip. Don't enlarge notches, but make them cleaner for a crisp firing. Filing your dog notches will take the "slop" out in the trigger itself.

-Flatten your trigger clip by tapping it with a hammer, or the other by opening up the trigger clip with a nail.
This will give you less 'trigger travel' before trap fires.
That's how I've tuned up conibears.

*I did think of a modification you may want on you Mink Conibears...that is a trip wire.
By that, a wire or fishing line running from end of trigger to end of trigger. This method, Mink centers his head between triggers and it's chest hits trip wire and trap fires. Or purchase Hal Sullivan's circle trigger. Hal's triggers are designed in a circle to center Mink though jaws. Google these methods to see what fits your needs.

I was a go getter Mink trapper years ago. My favorite set was against a bridge wall. Blind set with footholds.
Thief can be a problem at some bridges. It ticks me off, but an unfortunate  part of the game.